Backpacking Ultralight Reviews - Tents & Bivy Sacks

Ultralight Gear Reviews
by The Lightweight Backpacker
Shelters
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TENTS, Etc:

Mountaineering / 4-Season:

3-Season:

Accessories:

BIVIES:

Bibler Regular Bivy

OTHER SOLUTIONS:

Poly Tarp, Bivy Combination

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From: Charles Lindsey
Type of Gear: Tents
Name of Gear: Divine lightning
Manufacturer: Sierra Designs

I've been waiting for quite a while for someone to come out with a tent this size & weight. I'm really surprised no one else has. Anyway, I bought one. Read on, and if you're a minimalist, you'll know why.

DESCRIPTION:

Single-wall; 1 person + gear; hoop design; weight: 2 lb 2 oz + poles, stakes & stuff sacks ( 2 lb 12 oz actual (seam-sealed) field weight (I weighed it myself). This tent is definitely in the running for lightest tent available, anywhere !

MANUFACTURERS' SPECIFICATIONS:

fabric: ultra-lightweight, waterproof, 3-layer polyester, with moisture wicking and dispersion capability (inner layer is made of nexus), high tear strength, UV resistence, and 20% lighter than other single-wall fabrics on the market.

living space: 18.5 sq ft, interior peak of 37 inches, dimensions of 60" x 40" x 23" x 64" x 37.5" (trapezoid)

poles: 2 (the end pole is very small) Easton 7075 T9 aluminum poles (8.5 mm diameter) with natural rubber shock cord (most today use artificial rubber).

floor: tent floor is made of 70-denier 3.0 oz nylon taffeta, has taped seams, is coated and tested waterproof to 165 psi, yet is 10% lighter than other tents tested to 165 psi.

seams: all seams have a tongue-in-groove sewing construction where the two fabrics are interlocked by folds as well as a double seam.

ventilation: rear foot vent, front ceiling vent, and full mesh door provide good ventilation

other features:

full mesh door & nylon outer door
door guys out to become small awning
hydrophobic fabric instead of webbing at guy points will not wick water to the tent interior
comes with tube of SeamGrip (for sealing seams), lightweight stuff sacks for tent, poles, and stakes, cord for door and tent guy-out, and a bunch of aluminum tent stakes.

Oh yeah, the cost: Wholesale US $ 203.00 Retail: US $ 350.00 ( are you surprised ? )

OBSERVATIONS:

First off, it has a low, aerodynamic profile, well positioned stake loops and a guy-out loop on each side for maximum stability in nasty weather. The foot vent is quite large compared to my Garuda Jalan Jalan so I do expect the lightning to get good ventilation--much the same as my Jalan.

Important note. If you are 6 foot tall or taller, or if you have a long sleeping bag, you will probably block the rear foot vent and poor ventilation will result. I am 5 foot 9 inches tall, of medium build and use a regular-size sleeping bag. I fit in the lightning perfectly. There's just enough additional room for my gear. There's plenty of headroom for me to sit upright. In fact, when I sit up from my sleeping bag, I have plenty of head and upper body space to manuever around in.

Important note, although the floor is taped and coated, and all other seams are taped, all tent seams will need to be seamed sealed. A tube of SeamGrip comes with it. I strongly suggest getting a needle-nose syringe applicator to inject a fine bead of SeamGrip into outer seams where the stitching is on the inside, and use the brush that comes with to apply a thin brushing over the outer double seams, before using the tent--a brush applicator comes with. This is standard procedure on single-walled tents whether they are factory-seam-taped or not--e.g., Bibler--who tapes their entire tent-- suggests the same. I do same with all my tents, in order to ensure their storm worthiness. The syringe applicator does not come with the tent.

The outer, nylon door is similar to the Garuda Jalan outer door, in that it guys out to create a mini-awning. Absolutely great feature in the Summer. I've even used it (the Jalan door guyed as an awning) when there was a moderate rain without much wind. The big, big difference, unfortunately, is that the Jalan Jalan door is made of 3-ply, single-wall material that doesn't allow condensation whereas the Divine lightning door is made of single-ply nylon which does allow condensation.

The configuration of the lightning is most conducive for viewing the outside world, from within, because your head will be positioned directly in front of the door. In fair weather, the outer door can either be guyed out (as previously mentioned) or rolled up and tied out of the way, and the remaining mesh door allows for good viewing (because it's a big doorway) as well as excellent ventilation and bug protection.

It is very simple and easy to set up--with one exception (explained in the PROBLEMS section, below). One large pole inserted diagonally from within and one very short pole inserted from outside the tent, to establish the foot vent area. Two stakes is all that's really required, although I will carry five--two Easton monster stakes--one for each end--and three titanium pokers--one on each side and one for guying out the center of the door with an elastic cord (see TIPS below).

TIPS / PROBLEMS / SOLUTIONS:

TIP: This tent will work best if your sleeping bag zips on the left side, because it's on the left side that you will (1) place your gear and (2) get in and out of the tent.

You will, immediately, encounter frustration when inserting the main pole into its pockets. The two pockets where the pole ends are placed are poorly designed. Its impossible to get the pole in place unless the tent is staked front and back and fairly taut. Here's an analogy that explains the problem: if you had a coin purse with a sewn bottom and unsewn, open sides, your coins would always fall out. That's it. The "pocket" for the pole ends is a piece of "slippery", twisted rubber that makes it extremely difficult to seat the pole. If you're lucky enough to get the pole in the "pocket", it most likely will slip out. Okay, the SOLUTION. I used my trusty expedition sewing kit to take the twist out of the "pocket" and sew a few strategically placed stitches to create a stable, open pocket. This repair job created a pocket--on each side of the tent--sufficient enough to insert and secure the pole without even staking the tent first. That's the first pole problem/solution.

The second problem is the way-overkill-"gets-in-the-way" velcro tabs that secure the pole in place. There are velcro tabs--two on top, two on each side, and one next to each pole pocket, a total of eight. They are cumbersome, inconvenient, and impractical. I won't describe their design, but you'll understand when you see for yourself. The SOLUTION was to cut off the slender velcro extension piece of each and every tab (except) the one next to the pole pocket on each side. This cutting (1) simplified use of the tabs and (2) reduced overall weight of the tent. The cutting removed 2 7/8" of tab extension that produces a "double wrap" that might be useful on Mt Washington in 150 mile an hour winds, but otherwise is way overkill. Removal of the excess will not affect the ability of the tabs to hold the pole in place under "normal" high-wind conditions. On the other hand, if you plan on using this tent in the Himalayas, and don't mind spending an extra 15 minutes securing the pole, then maybe you shouldn't trim back the tabs.

TIP: In addition to the loop sewn on the end of the door which allows the door to be guyed out as an awning, there is also a loop in the center of the door. I use this loop to increase tent ventilation. It is useful in all weather conditions. To the loop I attach a 24" long elastic cord which has capacity to stretch out to 48" in length. I then stretch it out about 42" and attach to a titanium stake--one of the three that I carry. This does two things (1) creates a permanent 8" opening for air and (2) as you unzip the tent door, the elastic under tension automatically pulls the door material out of your way for easier tent entry. Important note--don't overextend the elastic cord--you want plenty of play in it to allow for high winds which might otherwise damage the tent material.

TIP: In order to ensure good ventilation, put a log section or large rock under the tent tail. This lifts up the tail and allows more air to enter the rear vent--especially useful in the Winter when snow & ice can weight down the tail and, thus, block or reduce air flow into the tent. This technique also works for other tunnel-type, single-wall tents (e.g., Garuda Jalan Jalan, Stephensons' Warmilite).

The tent comes with double zippers on the outer nylon door and inner mesh door. Each zipper has an inner and outer pull-cord--all identical. TIP: (1) remove all (blue) inner pull cords and replace with red pull cords and (2) tie an extra knot--right next to the zipper--on all inner (red) pull cords and all blue (outer) pull cords. You'll be glad you did. Otherwise, I guarantee that you'll be fumbling with the cords on two accounts--(1) you won't be able to distinguish the inner ones from the outer ones--they all just kind of hang there together and (2) they are hard to grab hold of with only one knot at the bottom of the cord, by tying the extra knot close to the zipper, it stablizes the pull-cord and makes it easier to grasp.

TIP: Remove the large cloth Sierra Designs advertising patch on the outer door. It adds useless weight as well as absorbs water which adds even more weight. Carefully cut the stitching on the patch, from the outside of the tent (that way you won't accidently cut the thin nylon tent material from the inside of the tent). Do this before you seam seal the tent. When seam sealing, put a thin layer in & on the needle holes where the patch was attached, in order to plug them.

"FIELD" TEST:

The conditions were such that I couldn't resist. Virtually no wind, 100% humidity and heavy rain. If the tent had a ventilation problem, I would find out in those conditions. Well, it does have a little condensation problem, due primarily to (1) too much area not covered with the 3-layer material coupled with (2) inadequate ventilation to disperse the moisture not picked up by the 3-layer material. The nexus lining was bone-dry wherever the three-layer material was used. The condensation occured on the nylon sides (much like a bivy sack) and on the nylon door. I may be able to reduce the problem, however, by addressing the following:

In addition to no wind to push air into the tent, the grass in the field was high and partially blocked the rear vent, and I probably tightened the tent too taut which also pulled the rear vent closer to the ground. Also, I slept on my right side and there wasn't a ventilating flow in that area to disperse my breathe, whereas if I had slept on my left side the air flow coming from the partially open door would have provided air flow, or on my back my breathe would have gone straight up to the ceiling vent. Anyway, it wasn't a big problem, but certainly not what I was accustomed to in my Jalan Jalan. Of course, the Jalan is totally covered with the 3-ply material plus has great, strategically placed vents.

Other than that, I thought the tent performed well. It took heavy rain with no problems. All in all, considering that there wasn't much air movement outside the tent, the rear air vent was partially blocked, and I exhaled significantly into the one area not well equipped to disperse moisture, the tent performed very well and I think in most conditions, it won't have the condensation problem, especially when the outer nylon door can be left open.

There seemed to be adequate space--for a short time I even had my (little dog) in with me & my full pack.

RECOMMENDATION (for you):

I recommend taking a close look at this tent for the following specific applications:

(1) multi-day, long-distance trekking where you want to maximize daily mileage.
(2) alpine climbs
(3) you are a minimalist, regardless of what activity you're doing, and must have the lightest available
(4) you use a regular length sleeping bag (in other words, you are 5 foot 10 inches tall or shorter).
(5) you have a bad back (like me) but must get out, anyway

It's not at the level of quality and performance of the Garuda Jalan Jalan, which is my number-one-rated one-person tent, but its 2lb 12oz field weight (compared to the Jalan's 4lb 1oz) makes it my choice for what I'm actually going to carry.

RECOMMENDATION (for Sierra Designs):

(1) replace the nylon door with a moisture-wicking-dispersing, 3-layer polyester door
(2) forget the advertising-logo, cloth patch on the outer door--it adds unnecessary weight & absorbs water, which makes it even heavier.
(3) shorten the velcro tabs that wrap around the inside tent pole--they are way overkill & difficult to work with
(4) redesign the pole holsters on the inside of the tent--make one that works
(5) make zipper-pull cords on inside of tent a different color than the outside zipper-pulls
(6) Consider redesigning tail cone to allow more open space along its sides--allows more air to enter under cone when tent is pulled taut and tail moves closer to ground.
(7) Consider making the top vent about 2 inches wider for better air-flow drawing power
(8) Consider putting a small mesh pocket along the inside wall opposite the door--for small flashlight, toilet paper, watch, etc.

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From:
Charles Lindsey, 10/15/96
Name of Gear:
Titanium Tent Pegs
Manufacturer:
Simon Metals
Field weight:
.4 ounce per stake

Produced by Simon Metals Company, these little pokers are about 7 3/8" long, 5/32" wide, with a large shepherd-hook end, and with weight that is comparable to your average aluminum poker. Even though they are much narrower than aluminum pokers, they are many times stronger. I can easily bend the aluminum pegs with my hands but cannot bend the titanium. It's pretty amazing that something so thin can be so strong. Anyway, I have hard ground out in front of my house so I tested the pokers out there. Again, the standard aluminum tent pegs--which, incidently, are about 1/4" wide (almost twice the width of the titanium pegs)--easily bent in the hard ground. The titanium pokers did not.
In fact, they more easily penetrated the ground because of their sharpened tip, slender profile, and strength to withstand some pounding (with a rock). They are well-designed and easy to work with. The end hook is designed so that you can put your index finger thru it, pinch finger to thumb, and provide support on the other side with the middle finger. This may sound uninteresting, but a comfortable grip with three fingers provides a lot of force when probing the ground with a tent poker. Even though they are very slender, their length, large end hook, and amazing strength makes them a secure anchor for any tent.
And most important of all (from an ultralightist packer's perspective) they are ultralight !
$16.95 + shipping for a set of 6, is a most reasonable price. You can order via mail, or call the number below:

Simon Metals Company 722 Del Valle Drive Fillmore, California 93015 Toll Free: (888)638-2599 or (805)524-1801
E-Mail: simmet@csiway.com
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From: Charles Lindsey, 10/15/96
Type of Gear: Tent
Name of Gear: Warmlite 2RSG
Manufacturer: Stephensons
Field weight (everything): 3 lbs 6 oz

This is a 2 person (with gear) tent, weighs less than 3 lbs (w/o options), has integrated double-walls (no fly needed), and a tapered-non-freestanding-hoop style. It has 40 sq feet of living space and an integrated vestibule. The only question mark for me is the durability of the 1.1 ounce ripstop nylon floor. One thing for sure, this is the lightest 2 person tent on the market !

I received my Warmlite 2RSG (translated 2-person, Regular w/Radiant Heat Block, Side Windows, Green) in September, have set it up only once, but have the following impressions. (I'll add more after using it a bit):

I'm impressed with the weight. Including silicone-sealed seams (done at the factory for $40) and 2 side windows (another $40), it's field weight is 3 pounds 6 ounces (I weighed it, myself) ! It is incredibly easy to set up. You don't need to get inside the tent. The 2 poles are inserted into their sleeves from the outside. It only takes three stakes, and getting the tent taut isn't that difficult.

Although the tent's ripstop parachute material seems very thin and delicate, it feels to be very strong and tenacious. I anticipate no problems with the material, since I treat all my gear with care. The material is very slippery, though, so it's necessary to set-up the tent on level ground and/or spray Stay-Tek or something like that on your mattress--else you might slide across the floor during the night.

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Kelty Triptease LightLine (guyline):

I am now using this in place of regular parachute cord for purposes such as clothesline, tent guyline, etc. Compared to parachute cord, it is significantly lighter and stronger. It is a reflective 3M Scotchlite yarn that will reflect light (so you don't trip or strangle yourself at night). The gold nylon color stands out against dark or light backgrounds. It's incredibly ultralight--less than half the weight of normal cords--1 ounce per 50 foot length. It is very strong--188 pound breaking strength with a spectre 900 core--abrasion resistant, high-tenacity nylon sheath. It has a firm weave which prevents tangling and is non-slippery.

It is recommended that it not be used for hanging food over tree limbs, however, because it is so thin and strong that it can saw its way right into the tree limb, thus, damaging the tree. Cost $15.00 for 50 feet. REI carries it.

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From: Charles Lindsey
Type of Gear: Bivy
Name of Gear: Regular
Manufacturer: Bibler

18 ounces (approx), Todd-Tex top half, coated tent bottom, factory-seam-sealed.

I've owned and tried other bivies but like this one for a couple reasons. It is (1) the lightest one I could find and (2) it has the features I was looking for.

I prefer the design that zip opens across the top about face level so I can upzip it partway and watch the stars. With some other bivies -- like the OR bivies -- you're either in or out, because of the end-around-zip. Also, with the end-zip, it's not as convenient to stash gear in the extra head space.

Unfortunately, like most bivies, the breathable fabric only covers the top half of the bag so, consequently, this bag does tend to condensate in colder weather, but certainly no more than other bivies.

One thing about bivies that I've noticed is that the bags with the 2/3 wrap around gore-tex or equivalent are much less prone to condensation than the 1/2 wrap bivies. My Feathered Friends bivy (no longer produced) is 2/3 wrap around gore-tex, with 1/3 strip of tent bottom. It's better in cold weather because of the lack of condensation on the sides. Don't know who makes the 2/3 wrap, now, if anyone.

Bibler sells the all-todd-tex bag, but that's no good unless you're always on snow, because the pores get all clogged with dirt, etc. and it wears out faster than tent bottom. Also, it's heavier and more expensive.

Well, anyway, my Bibler does have bug netting and Ive sewn a grommet on top which together with a 20ft length of lightweight cord, allows me to keep the bag off my face. In fact, it provides enough room to read or write (although I don't do that much). I just throw the cord over a branch or large boulder, pull on the other end to lift the material off my face, then tie it off.

It's a nice, lightweight bag that does what it's supposed to do.

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From: Charles Lindsey
Type of Gear: shelters
Name of Gear: Poly Tarp
Manufacturer: "Global Sources" (there are many other makers of these)

Polyethylene woven with reinforcing rope inside of grommets on sides and corners. It has waterproofing coating on both sides with heat sealed seams. I use an 8 foot x 8 foot tarp, it weighs about 7 ounces.

I've successfully used this tarp as a means of shelter by tying parachute cord to two of the corner grommets and using two lightweight tent stakes for the other two corners.

By tying the cord to tree limbs or rocks and by staking the other two corners to the ground, I make a little lean-to so that my gear and at least the top half of the bivy (with me in it) is out of the weather.

This works reasonably well. Total weight for this configuration is about 1 pound, 11 ounces (bivy 18 ounces, tarp 7 ounces, parachute cord and stakes 2 ounces).

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